SUPER RARE Original Advertising Catalog
With Samples
Fabric / Cloth / Textile
GORGEOUS Colors
Rockland Cretonne
Sawyer-Barker Company
Portland, Maine
ca 1920s - 1930
For offer, a very rare old advertising catalog. Fresh from an estate in Upstate / Western NY. Never offered on the market until now. Vintage, Old, antique, Original - NOT a Reproduction - Guaranteed !!Spectacular, unique fabrics. Rockland Cretonne, Guaranteed fast color, 35/36 inch. Large - catalogue measures 14 inches tall. unfolds, with 12 panels, showing 11 different fabrics (one is double sized and takes up two panels). Complete. Folds open accordionstyle. Brown cardstock covers.In good to very good condition. Small amount of wear / damage to top edge of covers - see photos. In nice condition - fabric samples are excellent. Please see photos for details. If you collect advertisement ad, 20th century art deco era design history, print / decoration, fashion, clothing, upholstery,etc., this is one you will not see again soon. A nice piece for your paper or ephemera collection.Perhaps some genealogy research information as well. Combine shipping on multiple bid wins!2722
Cretonne was originally a strong, white fabric with a hempen warp and linen weft.
The word is sometimes said to be derived from Creton, a village in Normandy where the manufacture of linen was carried on;[1][2] some other serious sources mention that the cretonne was invented by Paul Creton, an inhabitant of Vimoutiers in the Pays dAuge, Lower Normandy, France, a village very active in the textile industry in the past centuries.
The word is now applied to a strong, printed cotton cloth, which is stouter than chintz but used for very much the same purposes. It is usually unglazed and may be printed on both sides and even with different patterns. Frequently cretonne has a fancy woven pattern of some kind which is modified by the printed design. It is sometimes made with a weft of cotton waste.[2]
A textile[1] is a flexible material made by creating an interlocking bundle of yarns or threads, which are produced by spinning raw fibers (from either natural or synthetic sources) into long and twisted lengths.[2] Textiles are then formed by weaving, knitting, crocheting, knotting, tatting, felting, bonding, or braiding these yarns together.
The related words "fabric"[3] and "cloth"[4] and "material" are often used in textile assembly trades (such as tailoring and dressmaking) as synonyms for textile. However, there are subtle differences in these terms in specialized usage. A textile is any material made of interlacing fibers, including carpeting and geotextiles, which may not necessarily be used in the production of further goods, such as clothing and upholstery. A fabric is a material made through weaving, knitting, spreading, felting, stitching, crocheting or bonding that may be used in the production of further products, such as clothing and upholstery, thus requiring a further step of the production. Cloth may also be used synonymously with fabric, but often specifically refers to a piece of fabric that has been processed or cut.
Etymology
Textile
The word textile comes from the Latin adjective textilis, meaning woven, which itself stems from textus, the past participle of the verb texere, to weave.[5] Originally applied to woven fabrics, the term "textiles" is now used to encompass a diverse range of materials, including fibres, yarns, and fabrics, as well as other related items.[6][7][8]
Fabric
The word fabric also derives from Latin, with roots in the Proto-Indo-European language. Stemming most recently from the Middle French fabrique, or building, thing made, and earlier from the Latin fabrica (workshop; an art, trade; a skillful production, structure, fabric), the noun fabrica stems from the Latin faber, or artisan who works in hard materials, which itself is derived from the Proto-Indo-European dhabh-, meaning to fit together.[9]
Cloth
The word cloth derives from the Old English clað, meaning a cloth, woven or felted material to wrap around ones body, from the Proto-Germanic kalithaz, similar to the Old Frisian klath, the Middle Dutch cleet, the Middle High German kleit and the German kleid, all meaning garment.[10]
History
Main article: History of clothing and textiles
The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines. The cloth was most likely made by the native Asia people of northwest Romblon.
The precursor of todays textiles includes leaves, barks, fur pelts, and felted cloths.[11]
The Banton Burial Cloth, the oldest existing example of warp ikat in Southeast Asia, displayed at the National Museum of the Philippines. The cloth was most likely made by the native Asian people of the northwest Romblon. The first clothes, worn at least 70,000 years ago and perhaps much earlier, were probably made of animal skins and helped protect early humans from the elements. At some point, people learned to weave plant fibers into textiles. The discovery of dyed flax fibers in a cave in the Republic of Georgia dated to 34,000 BCE suggests that textile-like materials were made as early as the Paleolithic era.[12][13]
A weaving shed of the Finlayson & Co factory in Tampere, Finland in 1932[14]
Textile machinery at the Cambrian Factory, Llanwrtyd, Wales in the 1940s
The speed and scale of textile production have been altered almost beyond recognition by industrialization and the introduction of modern manufacturing techniques.[15]
Functions
Clothing made of textiles, Thailand
Textiles have an assortment of uses, the most common of which are for clothing and for containers such as bags and baskets. In the household, textiles are used in carpeting, upholstered furnishings, window shades, towels, coverings for tables, beds, and other flat surfaces, and in art. In the workplace, textiles can be used in industrial and scientific processes such as filtering. Miscellaneous uses include flags, backpacks, tents, nets, handkerchiefs, cleaning rags, transportation devices such as balloons, kites, sails, and parachutes; textiles are also used to provide strengthening in composite materials such as fibreglass and industrial geotextiles. Textiles are used in many traditional hand crafts such as sewing, quilting and embroidery.
Textiles produced for industrial purposes, and designed and chosen for technical characteristics beyond their appearance, are commonly referred to as technical textiles. Technical textiles include textile structures for automotive applications, medical textiles (such as implants), geotextile (reinforcement of embankments), agrotextiles (textiles for crop protection), protective clothing (such as clothing resistant to heat and radiation for fire fighter clothing, against molten metals for welders, stab protection, and bullet proof vests).
Due to the often highly technical and legal requirements of these products, these textiles are typically tested in order to ensure they meet stringent performance requirements. Other forms of technical textiles may be produced to experiment with their scientific qualities and to explore the possible benefits they may have in the future. Threads coated with zinc oxide nanowires, when woven into fabric, have been shown capable of "self-powering nanosystems", using vibrations created by everyday actions like wind or body movements to generate energy.[16][17]
Fiber sources and types
Textiles are made from many materials, with four main sources: animal (wool, silk), plant (cotton, flax, jute, bamboo), mineral (asbestos, glass fibre), and synthetic (nylon, polyester, acrylic, rayon). The first three are natural. In the 20th century, they were supplemented by artificial fibers made from petroleum. Textiles are made in various strengths and degrees of durability, from the finest microfibre made of strands thinner than one denier to the sturdiest canvas. Textile manufacturing terminology has a wealth of descriptive terms, from light gauze-like gossamer to heavy grosgrain cloth and beyond.
Animal
Animal textiles are commonly made from hair, fur, skin or silk (in the case of silkworms).
Wool refers to the hair of the domestic sheep or goat, which is distinguished from other types of animal hair in that the individual strands are coated with scales and tightly crimped, and the wool as a whole is coated with a wax mixture known as lanolin (sometimes called wool grease), which is waterproof and dirtproof.[18] The lanolin and other contaminants are removed from the raw wool before further processing.[19] Woollen refers to a yarn produced from carded, non-parallel fibre, while worsted refers to a finer yarn spun from longer fibers which have been combed to be parallel. Wool is commonly used for warm clothing.
Other animal textiles which are made from hair or fur are alpaca wool, vicuña wool, llama wool, and camel hair, generally used in the production of coats, jackets, ponchos, blankets, and other warm coverings.
Cashmere, the hair of the Indian cashmere goat, and mohair, the hair of the North African angora goat, are types of wool known for their softness. Used in the production of sweaters and scarfs.
Angora refers to the long, thick, soft hair of the angora rabbit. Qiviut is the fine inner wool of the muskox.
Silk is an animal textile made from the fibres of the cocoon of the Chinese silkworm which is spun into a smooth fabric prized for its softness. There are two main types of the silk: mulberry silk produced by the Bombyx Mori, and wild silk such as Tussah silk (wild silk). Silkworm larvae produce the first type if cultivated in habitats with fresh mulberry leaves for consumption, while Tussah silk is produced by silkworms feeding purely on oak leaves. Around four-fifths of the worlds silk production consists of cultivated silk.[20] Silk production consists of pillow covers, dresses, tops, skirts, bed sheets, curtains.
Plant
Close-up view of a Barong Tagalog made with piña fiber in the Philippines
Grass, rush, hemp, and sisal are all used in making rope. In the first two, the entire plant is used for this purpose, while in the last two, only fibres from the plant are utilized. Coir (coconut fibre) is used in making twine, and also in floormats, doormats, brushes, mattresses, floor tiles, and sacking.
Straw and bamboo are both used to make hats. Straw, a dried form of grass, is also used for stuffing, as is kapok.
Fibres from pulpwood trees, cotton, rice, hemp, and nettle are used in making paper.
Cotton, flax, jute, hemp, modal and even banana[21] and bamboo fibre are all used in clothing. Piña (pineapple fibre) and ramie are also fibres used in clothing, generally with a blend of other fibres such as cotton. Nettles have also been used to make a fibre and fabric very similar to hemp or flax. The use of milkweed stalk fibre has also been reported, but it tends to be somewhat weaker than other fibres like hemp or flax.
The inner bark of the lacebark tree is a fine netting that has been used to make clothing and accessories as well as utilitarian articles such as rope.
Acetate is used to increase the shininess of certain fabrics such as silks, velvets, and taffetas.
Seaweed is used in the production of textiles: a water-soluble fibre known as alginate is produced and is used as a holding fibre; when the cloth is finished, the alginate is dissolved, leaving an open area.
Rayon is a manufactured fabric derived from plant pulp. Different types of rayon can imitate feel and texture of silk, cotton, wool, or linen.
Fibres from the stalks of plants, such as hemp, flax, and nettles, are also known as bast fibres. Hemp Fiber is yellowish-brown fiber made from the hemp plant. The fiber characteristics are coarser, harsher, strong and lightweight. Hemp fiber is used primary to make twine, rope and cordage.[22]
Mineral
Asbestos and basalt fibre are used for vinyl tiles, sheeting and adhesives, "transite" panels and siding, acoustical ceilings, stage curtains, and fire blankets.
Glass fibre is used in the production of ironing board and mattress covers, ropes and cables, reinforcement fibre for composite materials, insect netting, flame-retardant and protective fabric, soundproof, fireproof, and insulating fibres. Glass fibres are woven and coated with Teflon to produce beta cloth, a virtually fireproof fabric which replaced nylon in the outer layer of United States space suits since 1968.[verification needed]
Metal fibre, metal foil, and metal wire have a variety of uses, including the production of cloth-of-gold and jewellery. Hardware cloth (US term only) is a coarse woven mesh of steel wire, used in construction. It is much like standard window screening, but heavier and with a more open weave.
Minerals and natural and synthetic fabrics may be combined, as in emery cloth, a layer of emery abrasive glued to a cloth backing. Also, "sand cloth" is a U.S. term for fine wire mesh with abrasive glued to it, employed like emery cloth or coarse sandpaper.
Synthetic
A variety of contemporary fabrics. From the left: evenweave cotton, velvet, printed cotton, calico, felt, satin, silk, hessian, polycotton
Woven tartan of Clan Campbell, Scotland
Embroidered skirts by the Alfaro-Nùñez family of Cochas, Peru, using traditional Peruvian embroidery methods[23]
A fabric tunnel in Moulvibazar District, Bangladesh.
Synthetic textiles are used primarily in the production of clothing, as well as the manufacture of geotextiles. Synthetic fibers are those that are chemically constructed, therefore are unsustainable.
Polyester fibre is used in all types of clothing, either alone or blended with fibres such as cotton.
Aramid fibre (e.g. Twaron) is used for flame-retardant clothing, cut-protection, and armour.
Acrylic is a fibre used to imitate wools,[24] including cashmere, and is often used in replacement of them.
Nylon is a fibre used to imitate silk; it is used in the production of pantyhose. Thicker nylon fibres are used in rope and outdoor clothing.
Spandex (trade name Lycra) is a polyurethane product that can be made tight-fitting without impeding movement. It is used to make activewear, bras, and swimsuits.
Olefin fibre is a fibre used in activewear, linings, and warm clothing. Olefins are hydrophobic, allowing them to dry quickly. A sintered felt of olefin fibres is sold under the trade name Tyvek.
Ingeo is a polylactide fibre blended with other fibres such as cotton and used in clothing. It is more hydrophilic than most other synthetics, allowing it to wick away perspiration.
Lurex is a metallic fibre used in clothing embellishment.
Milk proteins have also been used to create synthetic fabric. Milk or casein fibre cloth was developed during World War I in Germany, and further developed in Italy and America during the 1930s.[25] Milk fibre fabric is not very durable and wrinkles easily, but has a pH similar to human skin and possesses anti-bacterial properties. It is marketed as a biodegradable, renewable synthetic fibre.[26]
Carbon fibre is mostly used in composite materials, together with resin, such as carbon fibre reinforced plastic. The fibres are made from polymer fibres through carbonization.
Blends (Blended textiles)
Fabric or yarn produced with a combination of two or more types of different fibers, or yarns to obtain desired traits. Blending is possible at various stages of textile manufacturing. Final composition is liable for the properties of the resultant product. Natural and Synthetic fibers are blended to overcome disadvantage of single fiber properties and to achieve better performance characteristics and aesthetic effects such as devoré, heather effect, cross dyeing and stripes pattern etc. Clothing woven from a blend of cotton and polyester can be more durable and easier to maintain than material woven solely from cotton. Other than sharing functional properties, blending makes the products more economical.[27][28]
Union or Union fabrics is the 19th century term for blended fabrics. It is no longer used.[29] Mixture or Mixed cloth is another term used for blended cloths when different types of yarns are used in warp and weft sides.[30][31]
Blended textiles are not new.
Mashru was a 16th-century fabric, is one of the earliest forms of "mixed cloth," a material composed of silk and cotton.[32]
Siamoise was a 17th century cotton and linen material.[33]
Composition
Fiber composition[34] the fiber blend composition of mixtures of the fibers,[35] is an important criterion to analyze the behavior, properties such as functional aspects, and commercial classification of the merchandise.[36][37][38]
The most common blend is cotton and polyester. Regular blended fabric is 65% Polyester and 35% Cotton. It is called a reverse blend if the ratio of cotton predominates—the percentage of the fibers changes with the price and required properties.
Blending adds value to the textiles; it helps in reducing the cost (Artificial fibers are less expensive than natural fibers) and adding advantage in properties of the final product.[39][40] For instance, a small amount of spandex adds stretch to the fabrics.[41] Wool can add warmth.[42]
Production methods
Main articles: Textile manufacturing and Textile industry
Top five exporters of textiles—2013
($ billion)
China274
India40
Italy36
Germany35
Bangladesh28
Source:[43]
Weaving is a textile production method which involves interlacing a set of longer threads (called the warp) with a set of crossing threads (called the weft). This is done on a frame or machine known as a loom, of which there are a number of types. Some weaving is still done by hand, but the vast majority is mechanized.
Knitting, looping, and crocheting involve interlacing loops of yarn, which are formed either on a knitting needle, needle, or on a crochet hook, together in a line. The processes are different in that knitting has several active loops at one time, on the knitting needle waiting to interlock with another loop, while looping and crocheting never have more than one active loop on the needle. Knitting can be performed by machine, but crochet can only be performed by hand.[44]
Spread tow is a production method where the tow fibres are spread into thin tapes, and then the tapes are woven as warp and weft. This method is mostly used for composite materials; spread tow fabrics can be made in carbon, aramid and other fibres.
Braiding or plaiting involves intertwining threads together into cloth. Knotting involves tying threads together and is used in making tatting and macrame.
Lace is made by interlocking threads together independently, using a backing alongside any of the methods described above, to create a fine fabric with open holes in the work. Lace can be made by either hand or machine.
Carpets, rugs, velvet, velour, and velveteen, referred to as pile fabrics, are made by interlacing a secondary yarn through woven cloth, creating a tufted layer known as a nap or pile.
Non-woven textiles are manufactured by the bonding of fibres to make fabric. Bonding may be thermal, mechanical, chemical, or adhesives can be used.
Felting involves applying pressure and friction to a mat of fibres, working and rubbing them together until the fibres become interlocked and tangled, forming a nonwoven textile. A liquid, such as soapy water, is usually added to lubricate the fibres, and to open up the microscopic scales on strands of wool.
Barkcloth is made by pounding bark until it is soft and flat.
Treatments
A double ikat weaving made by the Tausug people from Sulu, made of banana leaf stalk fiber (Abacá)
Textiles are often dyed, with fabrics available in almost every colour. The dyeing process often requires several dozen gallons of water for each pound of clothing.[45] Coloured designs in textiles can be created by weaving together fibres of different colours (tartan or Uzbek Ikat), adding coloured stitches to finished fabric (embroidery), creating patterns by resist dyeing methods, tying off areas of cloth and dyeing the rest (tie-dyeing), drawing wax designs on cloth and dyeing in between them (batik), or using various printing processes on finished fabric. Woodblock printing, still used in India and elsewhere today, is the oldest of these dating back to at least 220 CE in China. Textiles are also sometimes bleached, making the textile pale or white.
Eisengarn, meaning "iron yarn" in English, is a light-reflecting, strong material invented in Germany in the 19th century. It is made by soaking cotton threads in a starch and paraffin wax solution. The threads are then stretched and polished by steel rollers and brushes. The end result of the process is a lustrous, tear-resistant yarn which is extremely hardwearing.[46][47]
Since the 1990s, with advances in technologies such as permanent press process, finishing agents have been used to strengthen fabrics and make them wrinkle free.[48] More recently, nanomaterials research has led to additional advancements, with companies such as Nano-Tex and NanoHorizons developing permanent treatments based on metallic nanoparticles for making textiles more resistant to things such as water, stains, wrinkles, and pathogens such as bacteria and fungi.[49]
Textiles receive a range of treatments before they reach the end-user. From formaldehyde finishes (to improve crease-resistance) to biocidic finishes and from flame retardants to dyeing of many types of fabric, the possibilities are almost endless. However, many of these finishes may also have detrimental effects on the end user. A number of disperse, acid and reactive dyes, for example, have been shown to be allergenic to sensitive individuals.[50] Further to this, specific dyes within this group have also been shown to induce purpuric contact dermatitis.[51]
Although formaldehyde levels in clothing are unlikely to be at levels high enough to cause an allergic reaction,[52] due to the presence of such a chemical, quality control and testing are of utmost importance. Flame retardants (mainly in the brominated form) are also of concern where the environment, and their potential toxicity, are concerned.[53] Testing for these additives is possible at a number of commercial laboratories, it is also possible to have textiles tested according to the Oeko-tex certification standard, which contains limits levels for the use of certain chemicals in textiles products.
See also
Clothing in the ancient world
International Down and Feather Testing Laboratory
List of textile fibres
Technical textile
Textile arts
Textile manufacturing (terminology)
Textile printing
Timeline of clothing and textiles technology
20th-century developments
The 20th century is marked by new applications for textiles as well as inventions in synthetic fibers and computerized manufacturing control systems.
Unions
In the early 20th century, workers in the clothing and textile industries became unionized in the United States.
Education
In the 20th century, the industry had expanded to such a degree that such educational institutions as UC Davis established a Division of Textiles and Clothing,[74] The University of Nebraska-Lincoln also created a Department of Textiles, Clothing and Design that offers a Masters of Arts in Textile History,[75] and Iowa State University established a Department of Textiles and Clothing that features a History of costume collection, 1865–1948.[76] The Smith College Historic Clothing Collection, maintained by the colleges theater department, houses 3000 items, everyday type clothing often overlooked by collections that focus on items that are considered unique or otherwise of interest.[77]
Even high school libraries have collections on the history of clothing and textiles.[78]
New applications
The changing lifestyles, activities, and demands of the 20th century favored clothing producers who could more effectively make their products have desired properties, such as increased strength, elasticity, or durability. These properties may be implemented through mechanical solutions, such as different weaving and knitting patterns, by modifications to the fibers, or by finishing (textiles) of the textiles. Since the 1960s, it has been possible to finish textiles to resist stains, flames, wrinkles, and microbial life. Advancement in dye technology allowed for coloring of previously difficult-to-dye natural fibers and synthetic fibers.[79]
Synthetic fibers
Following the invention of plastics by petroleum and chemical corporations, fibers could now be made synthetically. Advancements in fiber spinning actuators and control systems allow control over fiber diameter and shape, so synthetic fiber may be engineered with more precision than natural fibers. Fibers invented between 1930 and 1970 include nylon, PTFE, polyester, Spandex, and Kevlar. Clothing producers soon adopted synthetic fibers, often using blends of different fibers for optimized properties.[79] Synthetic fibers can be knit and woven similarly to natural fibers.
Automation and numeric control
The early 20th century continued the advances of the Industrial Revolution. In The procedural loops required for mechanized textile knitting and weaving already used logic were encoded in punch-cards and tapes. Since the machines were already computers, the invention of small-scale electronics and microcontrollers did not immediately change the possible functions of these machines. In the 1960s, existing machines became outfitted with computerized numeric control (CNC) systems, enabling more accurate and efficient actuation. In 1983, Bonas Machine Company Ltd. presented the first computer-controlled, electronic, Jacquard loom.[80] In 1988, the first US patent was awarded for a "pick and place" robot.[81] Advancements such as these changed the nature of work for machine operators, introducing computer literacy as a skill alongside machine literacy. Advances in sensing technology and data processing of the 20th century include the spectrophotometer for color matching and automatic inspection machines.
Portland is the largest city in the U.S. state of Maine and the seat of Cumberland County. Portlands population was 68,408 in April 2020.[4] The Greater Portland metropolitan area is home to over half a million people, the 105th-largest metropolitan area in the United States. Portlands economy relies mostly on the service sector and tourism. The Old Port district is known for its nightlife and 19th-century architecture. Marine industry still plays an important role in the citys economy, with an active waterfront that supports fishing and commercial shipping. The Port of Portland is the second-largest tonnage seaport in New England.[5]
The city seal depicts a phoenix rising from ashes, a reference to recovery from four devastating fires.[6] Portland was named after the English Isle of Portland, Dorset. In turn, the city of Portland, Oregon was named after Portland, Maine.[7] The word Portland is derived from the Old English word Portlanda, which means "land surrounding a harbor".[8] The Greater Portland area has emerged as an important center for the creative economy,[9] which is also bringing gentrification.[10]
History
Main articles: History of Portland, Maine; Timeline of Portland, Maine; and Railroad history of Portland, Maine
Fort Casco, Portland, Maine, built by Wolfgang William Romer; map by Cyprian Southack
Native Americans originally called the Portland peninsula Machigonne ("Great Neck").[11] Portland was named for the English Isle of Portland, and the city of Portland, Oregon, was in turn named for Portland, Maine.[12] The first European settler was Capt. Christopher Levett, an English naval captain granted 6,000 acres (2,400 ha) in 1623 to found a settlement in Casco Bay. A member of the Council for New England and agent for Ferdinando Gorges, Levett built a stone house where he left a company of ten men, then returned to England to write a book about his voyage to bolster support for the settlement.[13] Ultimately, the settlement was a failure and the fate of Levetts colonists is unknown. The explorer sailed from England to the Massachusetts Bay Colony to meet John Winthrop in 1630, but never returned to Maine. Fort Levett in the harbor is named for him.
The peninsula was settled in 1632 as a fishing and trading village named Casco.[11] When the Massachusetts Bay Colony took over Casco Bay in 1658, the towns name changed again to Falmouth. In 1676, the village was destroyed by the Abenaki during King Philips War. It was rebuilt. During King Williams War, a raiding party of French and their native allies attacked and largely destroyed it again in the Battle of Fort Loyal (1690).
Longfellow Square (c. 1906)
On October 18, 1775, Falmouth was burned in the Revolution by the Royal Navy under command of Captain Henry Mowat.[14] Following the war, a section of Falmouth called The Neck developed as a commercial port and began to grow rapidly as a shipping center. In 1786, the citizens of Falmouth formed a separate town in Falmouth Neck and named it Portland, after the isle off the coast of Dorset, England.[1] Portlands economy was greatly stressed by the Embargo Act of 1807 (prohibition of trade with the British), which ended in 1809, and the War of 1812, which ended in 1815.
In 1820, Maine was established as a state with Portland as its capital. In 1832, the capital was moved north and East to Augusta. In 1851, Maine led the nation by passing the first state law prohibiting the sale of alcohol except for "medicinal, mechanical or manufacturing purposes." The law subsequently became known as the Maine Law, as 18 states quickly followed. On June 2, 1855, the Portland Rum Riot occurred.
Gun recovered from USS Maine on Munjoy Hill
In 1853, upon completion of the Grand Trunk Railway to Montreal, Portland became the primary ice-free winter seaport for Canadian exports. The Portland Company, located on Fore Street, manufactured more than 600 19th-century steam locomotives, as well as engines for trains and boats, fire engines and other railroad transportation equipment. The Portland Company was, for a time, the citys largest employer and many of its employees were immigrants from Canada, Ireland and Italy. Portland became a 20th-century rail hub as five additional rail lines merged into Portland Terminal Company in 1911. These rail lines also facilitated movement of returning Canadian troops from the First World War in 1919. Following nationalization of the Grand Trunk system in 1923, Canadian export traffic was diverted from Portland to Halifax, Nova Scotia, resulting in marked local economic decline. In the 20th century, icebreakers later enabled ships to reach Montreal in winter, drastically reducing Portlands role as a winter port for Canada.
On June 26, 1863, a Confederate raiding party led by Captain Charles Read entered the harbor at Portland leading to the Battle of Portland Harbor, one of the northernmost battles of the Civil War. The 1866 Great Fire of Portland, Maine, on July 4, 1866, ignited during the Independence Day celebration, destroyed most of the commercial buildings in the city, half the churches and hundreds of homes. More than 10,000 people were left homeless.
By act of the Maine Legislature in 1899, Portland annexed the city of Deering,[15] despite a vote by Deering residents rejecting the annexation, thereby greatly increasing the size of the city and opening areas for development beyond the peninsula.[16]
The construction of The Maine Mall, an indoor shopping center established in the suburb of South Portland, during the 1970s, economically depressed downtown Portland. The trend reversed when tourists and new businesses started revitalizing the old seaport, a part of which is known locally as the Old Port. Since the 1990s, the historically industrial Bayside neighborhood has seen rapid development, including attracting a Whole Foods and Trader Joes supermarkets, as well as Baxter Academy for Technology and Science, an increasingly popular charter school. Other rapidly developing neighborhoods include the India Street neighborhood near the Ocean Gateway and Munjoy Hill, where many modern condos have been built.[17][18][19] The Maine College of Art has been a revitalizing force downtown, attracting students from around the country. The historic Porteous building on Congress Street was restored by the college. Portland is known as a very walkable city, offering many opportunities for walking tours that feature its maritime and architectural history.[20]
Neaby:
Cities
Portland (county seat)
South Portland
Westbrook
Towns
Baldwin
Bridgton
Brunswick
Cape Elizabeth
Casco
Chebeague Island
Cumberland
Falmouth
Freeport
Frye Island
Gorham
Gray
Harpswell
Harrison
Long Island
Naples
New Gloucester
North Yarmouth
Pownal
Raymond
Scarborough
Sebago
Standish
Windham
Yarmouth
Census-designated places
Bridgton
Brunswick
Brunswick Station
Casco
Cousins Island
Cumberland Center
Dunstan
Falmouth
Falmouth Foreside
Freeport
Gorham
Gray
Little Falls
Littlejohn Island
Naples
North Windham
Oak Hill (known as "Scarborough" prior to 2020)
Standish
Steep Falls
South Windham
Yarmouth
Other unincorporated communities
Bailey Island
Higgins Beach
North Bridgton
Orrs Island
Prouts Neck
Sebago Lake
South Casco
South Freeport
White Rock
Historically, clothing has been made from many clothing materials. These range from grasses and furs to much more elaborate and exotic materials. Some cultures, such as the various people of the Arctic Circle, have made their clothing entirely of prepared and decorated furs and skins.[1] Other cultures have supplemented and replaced leather and skins with cloth. Cloth is either woven or knitted, and can be made from a large variety of fibers, which in turn can be natural, cellulose, or synthetic.
Humans have shown extreme inventiveness in devising clothing solutions to environmental hazards and the distinction between clothing and other protective equipment is not always clear-cut; examples include space suit, air conditioned clothing, armor, diving suit, swimsuit, bee-keepers protective clothing, motorcycle leathers, high-visibility clothing, and protective clothing in general.
Categories
At its broadest, clothing terminology may be said to include names for:
Classes of basic garments: shirt, coat, skirt, dress, suit, underwear, swimsuit
Length, for skirts and dresses: micro-mini, mini, tea length, ballerina length, full length, midi, maxi
Contemporary and historical styles of garments: corset, frock coat, t-shirt, doublet
Parts of garments: sleeve, collar, lapel
Styles of these: juliette sleeve, Peter Pan collar
Clothing details: pocket, french cuff, zipper
Functional uses: base layer, insulation layer, outer shell
Traditional garments: cheongsam, kilt, dirndl, fustanella
Fashions and "anti-fashions": preppy, New Look, hip-hop, rational dress
Fabrics: denim, wool, chiffon, velvet, satin, silk, cotton
Fabric treatments: fabric painting, transfers, ikat, tie-dye, batik
Fabric manipulation: pleat, tuck, gather, smocking
Colors and dyes: madder red, indigo, isabella
Sewing terms: cut, hem, armscye, lining
Patternmaking terms: sloper, toile
Methods of manufacture: haute couture, bespoke tailoring, ready-to-wear
Retailers terms:
Size ranges: Small, Medium, Large, XL (Extra Large), XXL (Double Extra Large), Junior, Misses, Petite, Plus Size, Big-and-Tall
Retail seasons: back-to-school, holiday, resort, seasonal
Departments: special occasion, sportswear, bridge fashion
Degrees of formality: formal wear, bridal, business casual
Market: high end, high street, ethical consumer, cut price
New sources
Names for new styles or fashions in clothing are frequently the deliberate inventions of fashion designers or clothing manufacturers; these include Chanels Little Black Dress (a term which has survived) and Lanvins robe de style (which has not). Other terms are of more obscure origin.
Personal names
Clothing styles are frequently named after people—often with a military connection:
The Jinnah Cap is a fur qaraqul hat named after the founder of Pakistan, Muhammad Ali Jinnah.
The Garibaldi jacket or Garibaldi shirt were bright red woolen garments for women with black embroidery or braid and military details popular in the 1860s; they are named after the Italian revolutionary Giuseppe Garibaldi who visited England in 1863.
The Eisenhower jacket or "Ike" jacket is a waist-length, military jacket of World War II origins. Called the "Jacket, Field, Wool, M-1944", it was commissioned by then General Dwight Eisenhower as a new field jacket for the US Forces in Northern Europe. The jacket was based on the British Army Battle Dress jacket of the same era.
The cardigan is a knitted jacket or button-front sweater created to keep British soldiers warm in Russian winters. It is named for James Brudenell, 7th Earl of Cardigan, who led the Charge of the Light Brigade in the Crimean War (1854).
The Mao jacket is a very plain (often grey), high-collared, shirtlike jacket customarily worn by Mao Zedong and the people of China during his regime. Its drab design and uniformity was a reaction to pre-Revolution class distinctions of clothes, with elites dressing in elaborate silks, while poor laborers wore very rough clothes.
The Nehru jacket is a uniform jacket without lapels or collars, popularized by Jawaharlal Nehru, the first Prime Minister of independent India.
The Bloomer Costume was a type of womens clothing introduced in the Antebellum period, that changed the style from dresses to a more male-type style, which was devised by Amelia Bloomer.
The Wellington boot was a cavalry boot devised by the Duke of Wellington, originally made from leather, but now normally rubber.
The Stetson hat is named after the founder of the John B. Stetson Company.
The Mackintosh is a waterproof coat made from rubberised fabric, named after its inventor Charles Macintosh.
The Gandhi cap is a white colored sidecap made from khadi. It was popularised by Mahatma Gandhi during the Indian independence movement.
